Just under 7 hours in the saddle on a very hilly terrain in the blistering heat on fantastic smooth roads. What an experience, my first time in Gran Canaria. So much so I’ve been back for the last 3 years ever since! If you love climbing, you’re in for a real treat. A hidden gem that some of the pro teams use as a training ground.
It’s November 2019, cold and miserable as I look through the office window thinking of my next cycling adventure. I don’t normally travel this late in the year as I had been to Mallorca in May. However, my manager at work advises a contractor break has been enforced meaning I had to take a week off. To be fair as an IT Contractor this is standard practice as it’s the XMAS period when there is business protection to limit IT system changes during the busy festive period.
When I heard about the contractor-enforced break my first thought was to find a place to ride my bike where it would be sunny with blue skies given it was wet and miserable in the UK. My wife and children have always gone to my in-laws over the XMAS period so a perfect opportunity to get away. It was either a cycling trip abroad or home improvements as the list just got bigger and bigger! As usual, I messaged Dr Sheraz asking whether he was up for a trip abroad. Unfortunately he couldn’t make it due to work commitments so a solo trip it was going to be. No set destination or anything at this stage but I had the time off work and approval from the better half to start planning a last-minute getaway.
A quick search on Google highlighted the Canary Islands where the average temperature was around 23 degrees centigrade. Perfect temperature for a cycling holiday although it did state a chance of high winds. Another search on Google and I was looking at Gran Canaria as the destination. Never been before, and didn’t know what to expect so, as usual, looked on Strava for routes/rides. It turned out that a club member by the name of Rob Duckworth had been out there earlier in the year. A quick call to Rob to understand more about the destination soon made me realise it was going to be a hilly one! Valley of tears, Soria and the Island Loop were the notable climbs/routes. I’d heard stories of how difficult the valley of tears was with people comparing it to the climbs in the Lake District! However, this didn’t put me off as I like climbing and it plays to my strengths!
Now that I had the destination sorted, I needed to figure out whereabouts in Gran Canaria to stay. Lots of choices but needed to ensure close to the start of the most popular routes/climbs in the area as I wasn’t keen on cycling miles and miles before getting to the start if that makes sense. Another Google search and up popped a link to a bike shop in Playa des Ingles (Bike10Mil). This was a blessing as it had several cycling routes which all started from the bike shop. I messaged the owner Izz Ramadan who was super helpful and convinced me to stay in Playa des Ingles.
With the destination and location of stay clear, I needed to book the flight and accommodation. I’ve always done a package holiday via Jet2Holidays as booking everything individually yes can save a few quid but it’s never a significant saving and there is less hassle with a package holiday. I’ve always gone half board as a good breakfast and evening meal were key with all the planned cycling. Coming back from a ride and finding a place to eat is not something I wanted to worry about. Time to complete the booking and after a few clicks on the Jet2 website everything was booked. I informed Izz Ramadan who sent me several routes he recommended based on experience. Both nervous and excited I started route planning for the 7 days I was going to be out there for. The plan was to head into the mountains in the first few days whilst the legs were fresh.
After a 4-hour flight with no delays I was soon in Gran Canaria. The next step was to collect the bike box and head for the transfer bus. It turns out the airport terminal to the bus stop was a good 15-minute walk! Wheeling a bike box in the Sun along some rough terrain was hard work. Anyway, finally made it to the bus where the driver ticked off my name and helped load the bike box into the bus. All on time and hoping to leave very soon to get to the hotel where I would build the bike and go on a test ride along the coast road. Turns out there were people still in the terminal which meant the bus wouldn’t leave until all passengers were onboard! Not ideal but not in my control so kind of had to go with the flow. It started getting dark as we finally set off and knew I wouldn’t be able to do the full planned route as Sunset prayer time was not far aware. I reach the hotel where I check in and build the bike. I have an hour to complete the test ride and be back in time for prayers. Lovely weather, smooth roads, fairly traffic free but lumpy! I knew I was in for a great time. After an hour or so I get back to the hotel room and have no issues with the bike. A quick message to Izz before heading down to the restaurant for the evening meal. The buffet was perfect, lots of variety and the right food required for a long day in the saddle. A catch-up with the family over Skype and it was time for bed. A big ride planned which would take me over the infamous valley of tears and beyond.
The big day arrived, a hearty breakfast, bike checked, and lube applied. Tyres inflated and I was ready to roll. A bit overcast but not cold so decided to remove the arm warmers. The route took a detour as one of the key roads was closed due to a landslide. It was either routing around or going via the motorway! The first climb of the day was Soria which to be fair wasn’t steep but long. As I reached the top, I saw a shop so decided to stop and take in some food. A local asked where I was heading and when I told him he was struck in awe. ‘It’s a very difficult route and you need to be back before it gets dark as there are no streetlights, I knew it would be difficult but didn’t realise the no light’s part. I hadn’t brought lights and to be fair I wasn’t planning on being out in the dark! He also mentioned the rough terrain and to watch for cars along some of the tourist areas.
After the brief chat and finishing my drink, I set off and headed in the direction of Ayacata. I was making good progress and my legs felt good albeit a little nervous as to what was in store following the discussion with the local. I had covered around 40 miles and decided to stop at a café for lunch. A cheese baguette, coke and latte were just what I needed. I stopped for 20 minutes before pressing on. A lovely downhill section with sweeping bends and very little traffic took me to the village of San Nicolas which was the turn off to the start of the valley of tears climb. I was in good spirits and the weather was fantastic. As I approached the turning, I saw a café in the corner of my eye so decided to have a quick stop. Here I topped up my water bottle and downed another refreshing coke.
Not long now to the main climb passing through another small village and a huge Damn wall like structure. The roads even quieter to a point where you could hear a pin drop! It’s getting more and more remote as I pedal up the steep inclines topping out at around 20%. The road snaked around huge damn walls as I looked up ahead. The road surface wasn’t the best making it much harder than it should have been. Its never ending, in the saddle, out of the saddle, pedalling squares as I just about keep moving. I see the road vanishing and think this must be the finish. As it turns right there is a bit left to go before, I finally come to a stop. Sweating buckets, heart rate significantly elevated, and trying to get my breathing under control. That was tough but glad I make it to the top. I look at the time and decide I best carried on given I still had a fair amount of climbing to go before reaching the café in Ayacata. From Ayacata I knew it was going to be mainly downhill back to the hotel from looking at the elevation profile. As I clipped back in, I noticed the road went up again! After a brief descent where I spotted salt bin it started going up again. It was like a wall and a grind to get to the top. With tired legs I was travelling at snail pace, but the surrounding beauty kept me moving. No cars or anything in sight for hours although I’d heard of stray dogs in the area which got me a little worried. Anyway, it was just me and my bike thinking if I have a mechanical now what would I do! As I was making progress, I saw another rider whiz past thinking have they done the same route as me? Admiring the views and scenery I kept it in my own comfortable pace and finally made it to the café in Ayacata. Relieved, tired and in much need of food. I ordered a coke, a latte and a slice of carrot cake. As I paid for the items, I noticed Izz who came over for a brief chat. He looked at the time and insisted I set off in the next 10 minutes or else I would be riding in the dark. He was a local, a tour guide and therefore very experienced. The thought of night riding with no streetlights and no bike lights put me into panic mode. I quickly had my food and set off back towards the hotel. There will still a fair amount of distance left but with very little climbing. Again, the roads and views were amazing but with panic settling in I didn’t enjoy them as much. With all the descending done I approached the final climb of the day. Not particularly long or steep but it was a busy road which led to a viewing point at the top. I kept plugging away as it got darker and darker and finally reached the top. I was in two minds of stopping to take pictures but in end decided to continue given it was getting darker by the minute and I was soon back at the hotel. A sense of relief I had got round with no issues. All in all, a brilliant day in the saddle so much so I came back the following year and brought other members of the club to taste the delights of Gran Canaria.
I get asked how it compares to Mallorca which is a very popular destination for cyclists. Mallorca has the infamous Sa Calobra and Puig Major climbs. There are other climbs on that side of the island too. However, the flat parts towards Alcudia and Can Picafort are very busy roads and not enjoyable at all. I prefer Gran Canaria for the climbs, scenery and least amount of traffic. If you don’t like climbing then unfortunately its not going to be an enjoyable experience as flat routes are limited to the coastal road which can get very busy.
GC day 3 – Valley of Tears | Ride | Strava
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Altaf Hussain 
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